Luang Prabang

Our final stop in Laos was the city of Luang Prabang, which is designated a UNESCO world heritage site. Legend says that Buddha smiled when he rested there during his travels, prophesying that the site would one day be home to a great and powerful city.

Like many UNESCO sites, the designation is a mixed blessing: it brings tourists and their money and it encourages national and international funding of the are; but the influx of tourists does raise prices to the exclusion of locals. There is also the selfish dichotomy of visitors expecting preservation and rejecting modernisation. 

There is a level of sneeriness in the traveller community against "tourists" and the expectation of "travelling off the beaten path" or "going where the locals go". Our travelling style is to do our own thing, usually under our own steam but we'll mix up the usual tourist sites with the unusual. The problem with not going where tourists go is that it can (unconsciously) project the idea that travellers want places to stay the same and for the locals to live their lives without the impact of globalisation. For locals this can sometimes be felt as western travellers (who can afford not to work for two weeks of their year) wanting to keep the local people from developing and enjoying the benefits of technology and financial gain. I mention all this because a search for commentary on Luang Prabang will reveal a raft of people complaining about tourism now that the town is "discovered".

We were lucky as we drove ourself there. We could gauge the increased prosperity of the local people as we entered the outskirts of the city, compared to the villages we had passed through in the hills. We were also able to see that the main tourist area comprised a small area of the city: only 3 or 4 streets.

UNESCO describes Luang Prabang as "an outstanding example of the fusion of traditional architecture and Lao urban structures with those built by the European colonial authorities in the 19th and 20th centuries. It's unique, remarkably well-preserved townscape illustrates a key stage in the blending of these two distinct cultural traditions."

We loved it. The city has a really laid back atmosphere and it is lovely to walk the streets, admiring all the buildings and confusing ourselves whether we are in Europe or South America or Asia. The place has character and oozes history. Everyone we interacted with in the city was pursuing a goal and in this city, unlike a lot of Laos, it seemed that people had the opportunity to realise their ambitions, albeit requiring more effort and struggle than most of us in the UK. A lot of people were entrepreneurial and utilised the tourist influx to be able to turn their artistic talents into a job. We ate in restaurants and bars which had good service, good food and excellently mixed drinks. We certainly wouldn't do these lovely hardworking people the patronising disservice of saying "good.... for Laos" as we think these would be rated as good places anywhere in the world.

We went a bit left-field and ended up having a nice meal in a tapas bar with very moreish croquettes.

One of the great things about Laos is the bread. Although we have loved the food in SE Asia, the fusion of Asian cuisine with a fresh crusty French loaf is quite something. I was reminded again why sandwiches are my favourite food as I stuffed my chops while people watching.

The night market in the centre of Luang Prabang, like most of the cities in SE Asia is tailored to tourists and is usually an area where the "nicer" goods from the day markets are brought to one central spot. We have visited a number of these markets in our travels and some that are not touristy at all. We really enjoyed the market in LP because we were able to browse the wares without being harassed or pressured or tugged or poked. We were able to take our time and because of that we actually purchased.

There are a number of superb Buddhist temples in the city. A particularly stunning example was Wat Sene.  Gareth says it was nice and all that, but that he is a bit a Watted-out now. 

Luang Prabang is situated along the mighty Mekong river.  We tramped along the river to cross one of the two bamboo bridges, built every dry season by local families who charge a small fee to cross. The bridges are washed away during the rainy season flooding and the families build them back up again when the river lowers.  

Meets regs

We mainly traversed the town by foot, which was for the best as Google Maps kept trying to direct us across motorbike bridges, resulting in Gareth trying to do a 12- point cul-de-sac turn in a two-tonne pickup while being swarmed by endless scooters. 

"Fucksake" - Gareth

I loved Laos. It was my favourite country so far in SE Asia. It is a beautiful country with very nice people and a sense of community. The population is in a very difficult position and effectively trapped in poverty as a result of things that occurred more than a generation ago. On paper the country could be doing ok, but they are stuck and many of them risk their lives every day just trying to feed their families because of the thousands and thousands of bombs left in their country. Whilst visiting as part of our big trip, we felt that all we can do is spend our tourist money in the right places and raise awareness of the situation in Laos, but we were left with an overwhelming sense of unfairness and helplessness about it. However, in Luang Prabang we discovered something we could do to help in a very small way. 

There is a Laotian organisation called Big Brother Mouse(go here and give them all your money), which promotes reading in Laos. Traditionally books have been rare in Laos and so the organisation raises funds to translate books into Laotian such as The Wizard of Oz and also arrange for new books to be written. They train teachers who will be unfamiliar with reading for pleasure. Finally they visit schools where they promote reading, leave a library and ensure that each child has a book of their own. 

Everyday, they gave two drop-in sessions at their offices, where young people come to practise English, and so they ask for English-speaking (normally tourist) volunteers to come and join the sessions. So off we toddled. I ended up working with a group of 3 young men (16, 18 and 21) who certainly kept me on my toes by asking me to explain words like 'sarcastic', 'corruption' and 'impress'. My brain hurt but I had a lot of fun especially teaching them words like whack and mystery. They seemed to benefit from the session. Gareth spent his time babbling away at his usual speed, but did help a Hmong college student with his grammar homework, so that seemed to work out. 

It was only something small but at least we felt like we were doing something to help this "forgotten" country.

Next stop: more Cambodia.

Bangkok

We took a flight with Malindo (a pretty decent service for a budget airline, btw) to Bangkok, where we were staying for two nights.  We got a taxi to take us to our hotel, which was deep in the middle of the city.  Our driver was roguishly friendly, trying to entice us into tours of the city that he does in his ‘other’ car. He was also an LFC fan.  I fail at this aspect of international relations in that I don’t follow the football, and this is always the means by which foreigners try to find common ground.  Both halves of the Americas, Oz and NZ, here and no doubt the rest of SE Asia:  they always get excited when they meet a Brit male, because at least we can chunter on about the footie. Nope. I can’t even pretend, because we’d get four words beyond what vagueries I can remember from friends bitching about their teams on Facebook and then my fraudulent facade would crumble.  So I have to find other inanities to kill the silence that the friendlier blokes find unacceptable. 

The hotel was hidden within a warren of alley ways and choked roads, lined with hawkers and street-vendors, before being revealed rather dramatically at the end of a cul-de-sac.

The Thais we’ve met so far have either been the friendliest crowd we’ve met, or do such a good impression of it as to make no difference. I know not to attempt the wai –the bow with the hands in a prayer pose that they do- as it is incredibly nuanced, with all manner of subtleties related to status, age and circumstance.  I don’t need any more ways of upsetting anyone, so I do the awkward Brit nodding smile with unnecessary thank yous sprinkled throughout every sentence of any interaction.

Occasional laziness to one side, we don’t normally eat at the hotel unless there’s nothing else available, but the restaurant here was ridiculously good, with one chef training at the Michelin-starred noma, so we took our evening meals here twice.  There was still plenty of time to make ourselves ill by way of street food in the remainer of our time in the country.

We were in Bangkok, so we made sure to visit the Grand Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha.  One thing we didn’t read or remember was that one must be properly attired to enter these places, so we had to queue for half an hour to get given clothing to cover my obscene bare legs, and Chan's trousers as they were not baggy enough - the slattern.  Thusly made decent, we entered the grounds of the temple and did our best not to do anything sacrilegious.

"I FUCKING LOVE MY JOB!"
"Shut the hell up, Frank"

Not far from the grounds of these buildings is the temple of the reclining Buddha, which those sophisticates in the audience will remember from the Sagat stage of Street Fighter 2.

These particular grounds are special for having a series of ancient engravings in the stone, some describing remedies for abscesses on different body parts as well as some other maladies. Peer-reviewed citation might be needed for some of them.

When we were done there, we got a taxi to the Platinum Fashion Mall, so we could marvel at all the cheap clothing in diminuative Asian sizes. I was in need of T-shirts and Chan was in need of chuddies.

It was six floors of what were essentially market stalls.  One lady did my haggling for me, as I was foolishly going to pay the asking price for a shirt, and she gave me a 30 baht discount, pityingly.

We took a  tuk-tuk ride back to the hotel, for which I did actually go through the motions of haggling, as I know 300 baht (£6) for a ten minute journey is robbery.  I got him down to 150 baht, which was still theft, but it’s hard to get emotional over three quid.  Tuk-tuks are an experience.  The roads there are loud, filthy and dangerous, and all vehicles weave among each other as if tuned in on some organic level that us aliens cannot perceive. But it was enjoyable, even if my lungs won’t forgive me anytime soon.

Kurzfassung auf Deutsch:  Wir flogen nach Thailand, wo wir etwa einen Monat reisen werden. Wir besuchten das Grand Palace und mehrere wichtige Tempel, hatte aber länger Hosen zu tragen da wir unanständig erachteten.